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he first right from the exit point of Chandni Chowk metro station However grand an architectural marvel is, its historical relevance should
leading to the narrow streets lead you to the famous Neel Katra reach the ears of the government who, in some capacity could extend a
T where the historic mansion of Rai Lala Chunnamal stands tall hand of help to the family to retain the remaining glory of the place.
amidst the hustle bustle of Old Delhi.
The pale shadow of the glorious past of the haveli still manages to shine The helping hand that hasn’t knocked the doors of the haveli
through the dusty lanes of Chandni Chowk for those who know their way. Deeply disheartened by the fact that the heritage building is losing its
A black iron door surrounded by over 139 shops is what is easy to miss charm, Pershad is remorseful because of the lack of support from the gov-
but the grandeur of the haveli can be seen from far. At the gate, one is ernment in preserving the grand haveli.
stopped by an old guard who enquires about the purpose of your visit. The “Whatever I am doing is solely in my personal capacity. The facade has
eleven stairs climb leads you to the first floor where you can catch the really deteriorated. When you stand outside, you don’t know if you are
glimpse of a baroque mirror that reflects the traces of the haveli’s lost standing in front of a haveli. Even if I want to start maintenance work,
splendour. there is no single authority to give permission. Some other construction
The expansive haveli, which originally had 128 rooms, has a courtyard works keeps happening in the shops below and it is weakening the build-
at the center that opens up to a grand drawing room with huge mirrors, ing,” says Pershad.
fireplaces on either side, ornate candelabra, antique chandeliers, a high Pershad has written to North Delhi Municipal Corporation several times
ceiling, and beautifully carved furniture. The designs of the furniture have but to no avail. Talking about the haveli in Dharampura, which was re-
stayed unchanged over the decades and been replicated every few years. stored by MP Vijay Goel, he asks, “Has the government refurbished any
“All Sahib’s visitors are brought to this room,” says the guard. haveli and set an example till date?”
© CHUNNAMAL HAVELI
“We don’t let a lot of people come here anymore. Sahib (owner) doesn’t The daughter-in-law of the house often acts as a wall between the people
like it now.”, he added while he took me to another flight of narrow stairs.
who want to meet and can talk about the place. She, to this day feels like
the new bride who was to enter the haveli and be a part of the history that
The grandeur of the haveli this family is.
Standing erect on three floors, the haveli dates back to the Mughal era "My affair with the haveli started about 16 years back, when I had got
when Lala Chunnamal, a wealthy textile merchant and the first municipal engaged. Awestruck by the magnitude of the place, I ogled at the haveli,
commissioner of British India, acquired the place after 1857 and got it throughout the engagement ceremony! It took a while to sink in that this
constructed in various segments. Anil Pershad, the sixteenth generation of was going to be home," says Swetcha, the daughter-in-law of Anil Pershad.
Rai Lala Chunnamal stays in the haveli now, with his family and occupies "There are ten of us living here now. Maintaining the structure and there
just 10 percent of the grand haveli. The rest of the rooms belong to the antiques is a herculean task," she says, adding that government and cultural
other family members who have now moved out. The rooms are kept agencies are offering little help.
locked. With little to absolutely no help from the Delhi government in so many
The ground floor was traditionally meant to host grand functions of the years, Pershad is often seen really shocked at the number that he witnesses
family but was rented out in 1971 to shop owners and has since been used on a daily basis and the number of people actually talking about the haveli.
for commercial purposes. The first floor has a large courtyard with iron He is also evidently saddened by the fact that the government has turned
chairs for seating, and the rooms are currently occupied by the family. The deaf ear to their repetitive plea.
courtyard was once also used for having elaborate, opulent weddings. This is one of the many examples in the country where the government
Though time and lack of repair have left their mark on the place, it still is least bothered about the heritage, let alone preserve it. Such instances
retains its architectural marvel and aura of grandness.
disrespect the beauty and tradition of India.
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